Sunday, June 20, 2004

Sarawakian Gastronomic Delights

I did some shopping along the Main Bazaar Street this morning - I bought an antique Belian wood fruit bowl, an antique Iban Puah tapestry to hang in my living room and a Melanau bridal tapestry for my bedroom - in case I'm remarrying. Ummm???

While Kuching is not famous for their textiles, I do like their Kain Puah designs on silk fabrics. I bought a piece for myself. I also bought a couple of Sarawakian Batik, one is for The Boss, I know she will love it. I also got a purse made of fragrant tree bark for White Flower, and some souvenirs for Liliput and my other colleagues. For my best friends, I bought them beaded jewelry, very nice ones.

As my flight home is this evening at 10:00 p.m., and I had to check in by 8:00pm, we had an early dinner at 5:00 p.m. with Mak, Huffiz, Auntie Buang, Uncle Harris and my cousin, Mimie, at our new found friend Hatta's newly opened restaurant on the Ground Floor of Medan Pelita Building called MyKampung.Com Cafe. Hatta promised us an unforgettable Exotic Sarawakian Gastronomic Delights.

Carefully prepared menu included Steamed Bario Rice in Bamboo, Pansuh Ayam, Umei, Gulai Midin, Udang Galah Goreng (Fried Prawns), Ikan Terubuk Bakar, Tumpek. I am also hooked on Ulam Bunga Kunyit (Turmeric Flower) that you dip in Sambal Belachan. Truly a heavenly gastronomic delight indeed, and I especially remember Pansuh Ayam and Ulam Bunga Kunyit - a taste that still tantalize my taste buds.

I definitely will come by MyKampung.Com Cafe on my next trip to Kuching - the walk to the restaurant from Hilton Kuching along the waterfront is a trip worth taking. Food and travel always go hand in hand, like love and marriage. Ummm???

I left Kuching with a heavy heart - but with hope to return to this riverine city very soon. Especially with Air Asia's unbelievably cheaply priced air tickets!

Saturday, June 19, 2004

Night Spots in Kuching

Last night, I discovered that what was written about Sarawak is true: "Arrive in Sarawak and you step into adventure. How much adventure is up to you. Sarawak has something for everyone and a welcome for all".

I also learned that "Selamat Datai" is one of the many ways of saying "Selamat Datang" or welcome in the many languages of Sarawak.

Although Sarawak isn't exactly a place that never sleeps, like Kuala Lumpur is, there's definitely enough to keep you occupied and away from boredom. As aptly described by some brochures I found, night spots in Sarawak tend to exist in clusters, making club-hopping a lot easier. Kuching offers a platter of evening entertainment and late-night action for the sleepless - restaurants, food court centres, pubs and bars, cineplexes, bowling centre and local hawker stalls.

Last night my brother Huffiz and I discovered, some of the spots that come to life after dark are Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahaman, Jalan Mendu, Jalan Padungan and Jalan Borneo. Each night spot caters to a different type of crowd so it's well worth doing some exploring. So we did some club-hopping just for the experience.

Drink prices are usually pretty standard but they are about 20% more expensive compared to Kuala Lumpur. Not that it matters to me as I don't drink. I go clubbing for music and dancing. Most clubs come with a cover charge which usually includes one or two drinks, like the one we went just below Holiday Inn Kuching. I think it's called Jungle. Lucky for us, The Big Band from Kuala Lumpur were playing tonight, and we got a chance to strike up a lively conversation with two of the band members. I like their on stage performance versatility - they can sing almost anything and very well too.

Most clubs in Kuching don't come with cover charge, and we found two of the more happening ones next to Hilton Kuching. I'm not into drinking, I just enjoy the music and the excitement, they have very good music too.

We went back to the hotel at 3am, dead beat and tired, but delirously happy nevertheless after so much excitement for one night. I had a dreamless sleep!

Friday, June 18, 2004

Sarawak Cultural Village & Top Spot Seafood Galore!

Nothing much happened yesterday - we took a taxi to USPD car dealership to collect my cousin Mimie's brand new Perodua Kelisa. Mimie is studying at Universiti Malaysia Sarawak, so Auntie Buang decided to buy her a car so she can get around easier.

We managed to collect the car by noon, but sending to the workshop to install anti-theft device and tinting takes much of the day. I only managed to shop at a nearby sleepy mall, and kept dozing off at the workshop. What a waste!

But today, I am determined to make it a very interesting day.

After Sarawak Laksa Breakfast at Aunt Mary's Kitchen, were soon well on our way to the Santubong Peninsula to the Sarawak Cultural Village which is just a 45-minutes drive from Kuching.

The Santubong Peninsula is located at the West Mouth of the Sarawak River. At its northern tip, Mount Santubong (810 m) rises majestically from the sea.

I was told the area has been settled since ancient times, and was once a major trading centre. Nowadays the Peninsula, particularly Damai, is a popular beach resort area and a good base for discovering the charms of Southwest Sarawak. All manner of attractions are here; sleepy fishing villages, primary rainforest, superb seafood restaurants, an Arnold Palmer-designed golf course, a "living museum" - Sarawak Cultural Village - and luxury beach resorts.

I was also told that on a clear day, the Santubong area offers spectacular sunsets, as the sun sinks slowly into the sea framed by Sarawak’s rolling hills on one side and scattered islands on the other.

"See Sarawak in Half a Day" is the claim made by Sarawak Cultural Village, a unique award-winning living museum offering an excellent introduction to local cultures and lifestyles. On a sprawling 17-acre site just a short walk from the nearby resort hotels, there are replica buildings representing every major ethnic group in Sarawak; Bidayuh, Iban and Orang Ulu longhouses, a Penan jungle settlement, a Melanau tall-house, a Malay town house with adjacent top-spinning court, a Chinese farm House and a Chinese pagoda. All the buildings are staffed with members of the various ethnic groups, in traditional costume, carrying out traditional activities. Each building has a "storyteller" who is expert in describing and interpreting traditional cultures and lifestyles. Staff happily posed with us for photos, and my brother, Huffiz was happily taking pictures with all the pretty native girls for souvenirs. Well, boys will be boys!

We also visited Rumah Melanau and made friends with Ding Dong, a Melanau native man who happily played the traditional guitar for us, while we danced to the tune. Stopped by Rumah Melayu and bought some "makjun", a traditional herb remedy. Really powerful stuff - good for wind, blood circulation and aphrodisiac (umm not sure if this is a good idea as I'm celibate).

What I enjoyed most during my Sarawak Cultural Village visit was the Iban traditional dance performance - the dancer with the blowpipe is really cute :)

That night, we went to Top Spot for some seafood galore. We tried Umei, a spicy salad of raw marinated fish, limes and shallots, is the traditional dish of the Melanau people. We also tried local vegetables - crispy jungle fern, midin and paku. We were told by Hatta that one dish that you are unlikely to find elsewhere is ambal (bamboo clam), which is usually cooked as a mild dry curry or steamed. We tried that too - unusual appearance (looks like a worm in a bamboo shell!) but tastes superb.

After an unproductive yesterday, I really enjoyed a fruitful today - it was truly an unforgettable experience!

Wednesday, June 16, 2004

Exploring the Cat City & Kuching Waterfront

I have arrived - in Kuching, Sarawak, that is. Sarawak is the only state in Malaysia that I have not visited. So, you can imagine my excitement exploring this exotic city.

I have arrived more than six hours earlier than my family due to last minute flight booking. Fortunately, I was able to check into the hotel much early than I'm supposed to, thanks to the warm hospitality of the friendly front office hotel staff at Kuching Hilton.

After checking in and taking some forty winks for about an hour, I decided to explore the city on my own by foot. I was told eveything is just withing walking distance, just walk along the Kuching Waterfront overlooking the Sarawak River.

I was told that the Kuching Waterfront is the place to be for both tourists and locals alike, being a popular meeting place in Kuching. From the waterfront you can see arresting vista - Astana, Fort Margherita and some Malay villages along the river bank.

At night, however, the waterfront becomes more alive that hanging out there is almost like hanging out in Sri Hartamas in Kuala Lumpur, except that you get a breathtaking riverside view. You can choose to bask or just walk along the almost one kilometre esplanade lined with cosy lovers benches, food stalls and restaurants that tantalizes your buds and entertainment spots for party goers.

Along the esplanade you can see restrored old buildings - Chinese History Museum, Sarawak Steamship Building, an outdoor theatre and Square Tower. Modern structures at the Waterfront include a Chinese pavilion and an observation tower.

I took advantage of the perfect weather for my exploration of this city that has justly been described as "the most attractive city in Southeast Asia". It's like living in a garden, with a river flowing through it. I have to agree that no other city in Malaysia has such a romantic and unlikely history. And perhaps, no other city in the country exudes its charms like Kuching does.

Kuching has an unusual name - the word means "cat" in Malay. There are a number of stories as to how this name came about, but it is unlikely that it has anything to do with cats, I believe. The two more likely explanations are that it derives from the Chinese word kochin, meaning "harbour," or that it is named after the mata kuching or "cat's eye" fruit, a close relative of the lychee that grows widely here.

That's Kuching, Sarawak's capital, dubbed as "one of the most live able and people-friendly cities in the region." Kuching is a harmonious blend of modern amenities and colonial days structures interspered with colorful Malay and Chinese shop houses. Modern and old world charms, interspersed. With riverboats along Sarawak River overlooking the quaint old colonial buildings including a castle, it is quite a romantic escapade. Well, it would be romantic, if I'm not on a family holiday.

The Sarawak River is the center of Kuching life and Kuching Waterfront, a beautifully landscaped esplanade, is the main gathering place for Kuching's population, especially as the sunsets beyond the scenic Matang Mountains.

Across the river is the Astana, once the home of the White Rajah's, now the Governor's residence' Nearby are Fort Margherita, a reminder of more turbulent days, and the colourful Malay kampung. All are well worth the short sampan ride across the river.

I thought a stroll along the Waterfront at any time of day is a good start for a tour on foot around the city. It's a very walkable place with none of the traffic snarls or pollution of other Asian centers.

Just across the road is the Main Bazaar, once the city's commercial center, now housing curio and antique shops, travel agents and coffee shops. Main Bazaar, opposite the Waterfront, is the oldest street in the city and the heart of old Kuching. It has some superb examples of Chinese shophouse architecture, many of which have been occupied by the same family for generations. These families still pursue traditional occupations such as tin-smithing, carpentry and petty trading. Kuching’s highest concentration of antique and handicraft shops are to be found here, and shoppers can rest between bargaining sessions in a number of old-fashioned coffee shops with panelled walls and marble-topped tables.

The narrow, bustling streets are crammed with shops selling all manner of goods, from the mundane to the exotic. There are ornate Chinese temples, many fine examples of colonial-style architecture, a beautiful waterfront and a number of interesting museums, including the world-famous Sarawak Museum. Nearby is the Sarawak Museum with its beautiful gardens and the park built round the old town reservoir.

After a few hours' walk, I decided to cool off, and popped into one of the air-conditioned shopping malls in the city center. There a variety of brand name goods as well as local handicrafts and food outlets. Being a city girl, of course, I did some shopping.

Eating, I discovered, seems to be a favorite pastime with Kuching's people and there's such a variety to chose from, Western, Malay, Chinese, Indian. There are roadside stalls and food outlets in the malls. But I decided to try Aunty Mary's Kitchen on Main Bazaar Street, across the Waterfront, for some delicious Sarawak Laksa - it's superb!

My family - mom, brother, aunt, uncle and cousin - arrived around 6pm. In time for dinner. After they checked in and rested for an hour, we went for dinner at Arif's Cafe along the Waterfront for some fried soft shell crabs. It was yummy!

After dinner we decided to go for a moonlight river cruise along Sarawak River. The view is fantastic - sparkling lights from the buildings look like jewel in a crown, you can almost pick them one by one.

Under the bright moonlight, from the river I can see picturesque Malay villages (kampungs), a golden-domed mosque, a Victorian fort, a whole street of 19th century Chinese shophouses and an imposing wooden-roofed palace, all set against a background of distant mountains.

After the cruise, we went for some "Teh Tarik" along the Waterfront. We were fortunate to come across MyKampung.com, a drinks stall, and its owner, Hatta, an enterprising Sarawakian businesman, who also owns a restaurant nearby. He has invited us for a Sarawakian cuisine dinner at his restaurant.

Teh Tarik was fantastic, it's multi layered and a good cap for the night - well, I'm nearly dozing off now. So that's my travel note for tonight. I will probably dream of picking stars from the Kuching sky while sipping teh tarik while cruising on the riverboat.